Tunisia's Largest Island Is Missing Out on British Holidaymakers
The view during the middle of the morning in the vast sun-filled courtyard at the Radisson Blu Palace Resort & Thalasso is typical for a late-spring day like many others. The African border of the Mediterranean The sky and the swimming pool seem to be part of an evident plot, matching their hues precisely with a trademarked holiday-blue colour. Although the ocean doesn’t fully keep up, staying in its wintry cloak of moody green-grey, the outside temperature—an amiable 20°C during March—most definitely is doing its best to promote this ambiance. Tunisia as an all-year-round spot for those fond of lazing about on sunbeds.
The sole peculiarity lies in the conversations coming from those daybeds. Peculiar, that is, for someone hailing from the UK. Typically, one might anticipate hearing numerous fellow countrymen at a beachside hotel just a short flight away from Britain’s winter dreariness. However, most interactions with the staff here are conducted in perfect French, or with a discernible German accent. You’ll catch occasional snippets of French phrases exchanged around. bonjour and merci here, a s’il vous plaît There – adds a touch of sweetness to everyday chats, and should you close your eyes and tune out, you could almost imagine yourself elsewhere. Cote d’Azur .
This alone does not come as a shock. Djerba - which spans 198 square miles and is not only the largest island in Tunisia but also the biggest in North Africa - has consistently attracted numerous tourists over the years. Bordeaux and Berlin , package-holidaymakers from Strasbourg and Stuttgart ; indeed, from nearly every major city in France and Germany.
Upon arriving about 36 hours prior, I found myself scanning the departure screen, noting 11 French airports (spanning across the map with places like Montpellier and Nantes) along with eight major German terminals. In stark comparison, just two British locations were illuminated: Manchester and London Luton, where I had taken off earlier that same day.
The lack of Djerba appearing on UK travellers' radar remains one of the lasting enigmas in tourism – particularly since Tunisia's main landmass is quite familiar to British holidaymakers seeking sunshine. Indeed, their connection hasn’t always been smooth: the tragic Sousse terrorist incident in June 2015, resulting in 38 fatalities at a seaside resort with 30 being Britons, likely contributed significantly to a hesitance among visitors to go there.
However, despite this tragic event significantly undermining Tunisia’s third-largest city as a popular vacation destination (with no direct flights now available from the UK to Sousse), it hasn’t dampened British curiosity about the country for those who keep up with such matters – nor diminished its budget-friendly appeal.
In the previous year, approximately 278,000 people made visits, with numbers slowly recovering toward the higher mark of 497,000 seen before the unfortunate event in 2014. Presently, travelers have access to 19 different flights connecting Britain to Hammamet — a vibrant resort located about 60 miles north of Sousse along the eastern coastline. Additionally, booking a one-week or two-week stay at an all-inclusive accommodation tends to cost significantly less compared to similar options across the Mediterranean on the European side.
No, the cause of Djerba’s relative obscurity is rather ordinary. It could be described as a classic catch-22 situation: historically, there have been scarcely any direct flights from the UK to the island – and consequently, not many British visitors have set foot there either. easyJet’s The recent choice to include Djerba in their route map could be transformative. This budget airline is already managing ten out of these nineteen pathways to Hammamet. Starting in November, they will also operate dual weekly services to Djerba from both Luton and Manchester airports.
This demonstrates astute reasoning – after all, the contentment among French and German clientele suggests that Djerba is indeed a valuable opportunity. Supporting this view are some pertinent figures as well. Annually, Tunisia attracts approximately nine million international tourists, and nearly one-quarter of these travelers (roughly two million) visit its largest island.
By doing this, they are treading a well-trodden path. Although British holidaymakers might not be acquainted with its allure, Djerba has long been a desirable part of the Mediterranean. The island bears witness to the footsteps of the ancient world—those left by Greek and Phoenician seafarers crossing over to Africa’s shores, as well as those of their Roman successors. Similar to many areas nearby, it fell under the dominion of powerful Arab caliphates in the seventh century before being subjugated by the Ottoman Empire. In later times, during the colonial age when numerous European nations looked covetously towards southern lands in the nineteenth century, it became entangled within these imperial ambitions. This led to a phase of French governance lasting from 1881 until Tunisia achieved independence in 1956.
You might also catch a view of the island outside these periods, lost in the fog of mythology. Djerba holds a strong connection to one of the most celebrated Greek epics. The Odyssey , and is frequently referred to as its "Land of the Lotus-Eaters." This was a realm characterized by languid idleness, inhabited by dreamy individuals enthralled by the "Lotus Tree" and the numbing impact of its fruits—a self-satisfied, insular sphere from which Odysseus and his crew barely manage to flee.
The cumulative effect of these deeply rooted influences (at least those that are undoubtedly factual) is that this island stirs wanderlust, encouraging travelers to explore beyond just the extensive hotels along its northern coastline.
Indeed, you don't need to travel far to discover these intertwined layers. Just eight miles from the coast lies the quaint town of Erriadh, where the Catholic church dedicated to Saint Joseph in the Houmt Souk district harmoniously coexists alongside white-washed mosques, weaving together a rich fabric of Abrahamic faiths.
At its periphery, the El Ghriba Synagogue asserts an extraordinary (unconfirmed) statement: it claims to be the world’s most ancient synagogue, tracing its roots back to Jewish refugees who left the Holy Land following the Babylonian invasion and the downfall of the Temple of Solomon in 586 BC. While you may find it challenging to discern tangible signs of this historical depth within a structure predominantly from the 19th century, the edifice exudes a serene elegance as sunlight streams through tall windows onto azure-tiled walls.
The person showing me around for the day unintentionally highlights that I'm an outsider in unfamiliar territory. Upon greeting me, Gamaal Sfaxi sincerely apologizes for his "inadequate" command over English, despite being quite proficient. He explains, "I last studied this language 27 years ago; I typically communicate better in either French or German," as he politely tilts his head.
He stands more securely grounded with Erriadh’s Djerbahood – a striking street art initiative that mirrors the contemporary ingenuity one could typically encounter in cities like London, New York, or Tokyo. This venture has brought vibrant hues to this lesser-known corner of an island populated by merely 184,000 inhabitants.
Conceived in 2014, Djerbahood As it has come to be known, this initiative originated with a Paris-based gallery owner who enlisted an alliance of artists to journey to Djerba and create artworks on the unadorned walls of Erriadh. What began modestly has since flourished into an extensive network covering not only main streets but also hidden alleyways and house fronts adorned with over 250 murals. These range from abstract designs and geometric forms that can seem cryptic to those with clearer narrative intent—such as portraits of serene-looking women or vivid scenes depicting dynamic African fauna. Collectively, these pieces contribute to a vibrant international display. Among the contributing artists are Egypt's renowned street artist Aya Tarek, American painter Logan Hicks, Tunisia-born muralist Mohamed Tbib (also known under his alias "Inkman"), along with eL Seed, the professional moniker used by the Franco-Tunisian calligraphy specialist Faouzi Khlifi.
Back at the north coast in Houmt Souk, El Fondouk stands as another artistically revived site – a caravanserai A traditional guesthouse commonly seen in North Africa and the Islamic world has been reborn as an upscale eatery. The proprietor, French expatriate Laure Jeanne Moreaux, gladly gives me a tour of the premises, which she commenced renovating back in 2020. She highlights some sepia-toned photographs showing camels tied up in what is now the dining area with tables. With her extensive travels—including stints in Madeira and Bangkok—her sense of adventure shines through in the charming blend of French and Tunisian cuisine offered here. For instance, their take on mixed fish curry exemplifies this fusion perfectly. bouillabaisse however, thanks to the local spices that provide a warming sensation on the palette.
She stands as an island within an island where its capital showcases the Tunisian style attractively. Past the dining area, Houmt Souk extends into a labyrinth of narrow covered alleys and stores, hinting at its name’s meaning (“roughly, ‘market quarter’”). The scent of cinnamon and cardamom fills the atmosphere, vivid textiles drape across entrances, and frequent yet unobtrusive invitations beckon you to step inside for a closer inspection.
I emerge from the maze-like streets onto the water's edge and find myself at the foot of the town's longtime guardian. Known mostly as "the Spanish Fort," this imposing structure significantly overshadows its simple moniker. Originally constructed in 1289 on the foundations of an ancient Roman fortification by Roger de Loria—a military leader from Aragon—this bastion has since been enlarged and reinforced over time through efforts led by numerous sultanates and Ottoman administrators. Honestly, it remains quite a formidable sight even today.
Nor do these semantic nuances lessen the vista from its battlements, where the sea shimmers in the golden hour’s light. This scene is not precisely the one described in The Odyssey — where some of his men become so captivated by their environment that a progressively exasperated Odysseus mentions having to "make them return to the ships... even though they were crying profusely." However, after encountering Djerba, you might find yourself quite content to remain there.
A galaxy not too distant: exploring the mainland from Djerba
A lesser-known benefit of Djerba’s position is the ease with which it offers entry into southern Tunisia. Despite being an island, it is linked to the mainland via the Roman Road – a five-mile causeway that showcases ingenious engineering typical of the Romans. Its name subtly suggests this historic origin.
This allows for journeys through a terrain marked by arid grandeur, topped with Berber settlements and hamlets where dwellings are sculpted from rocks and perched precariously on rugged slopes—or often burrowed deeply within them. Places like Toujane, Chenini, and Tataouine exemplify this perfectly; bustling hubs of desert culture where, aside from the presence of satellite dishes and mobile phones among the donkeys and dust, everyday life seems to have remained largely untouched over hundreds of years.
The latter serves as a hint (though those acquainted with the term "Tatouine" seldom require it) indicating that the area is closely connected to the Star Wars The franchise includes. Located twenty miles north of the town, the village of Ksar Hadada features a Berber grain storage from the 19th century. This structure with its squat chambers was pivotal in the events of 1999. The Phantom Menace It currently functions as a hotel (£35 per night).
Likewise, though somewhat more notably, the Hotel Sidi Idriss (00216 75 240 005; £50 per night), located 60 miles northwest in Matmata, was featured as Luke Skywalker’s residence in the first film of the series (1977). It remains a sort of pilgrimage site for fans.
Visitors have the option to reserve guided tours to the Tunisian mainland from Djerba. easyJet A single-day trip to Tataouine and Chenini begins at £58 per person.
Essentials
EasyJet Flies to Djerba from Luton and Manchester starting at £86 for a return trip. A week-long stay at the five-star hotel costs from this price point. Radisson Blu Palace Resort & Thalasso (00216 75 757 600), departing from Luton on April 22, begins at £562 per person including EasyJet Holidays (0330 551 5165). See Discover Tunisia for more information.
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