Sydney Falls in Love: Greek Restaurants Boom with New Openings and a Sizzling Pop-Up
When Greek chef Ntinos Fotinakis trades his restaurant on the Athenian Riviera this month for a two-week residency at Manta When he arrives at the restaurant located at Woolloomooloo Wharf, he'll find himself in a city experiencing an unparalleled surge in Greek cuisine.
It feels like Greek month in Sydney over the last twelve months, with the city experiencing an enthusiasm boom for new Greek restaurants opening up. Fotinakis' moussaka croquettes at Manta must really stand out since they’re vying against creations such as the lamb brain tiganita served at Redfern’s. sizzling hot Olympus Dining , which launched in December. Additionally, you can try the shellfish saganaki at Ammos , the expansive restaurant launched last year by Australian-Greek chef Peter Conistis in Brighton-le-Sands. Additionally, Conistis has been active in the Sydney CBD, where he has also opened new establishments. Ela Ela restaurant at the Bristol Arms hotel late last year, after launching a souvlaki bar on its rooftop.
Last week, Olympic Meats attended a gathering in Marrickville, crafting gyros with the meticulous attention typically seen in the Peloponnese region: marinating meats over three days and wrapping them in homemade sourdough pitas. The festivities at Bondi Beach will kick off simultaneously, adding their own flair to the event. Kazzi restaurant announcing it will open there in May, after gaining a fast following in Manly and Balmoral.
It seems Sydney may have surpassed Melbourne – home to a large Greek diaspora – as the leader in cutting-edge Greek cuisine. When restaurant owners from Chicago, which also has a substantial Greek community, sought out skilled professionals, they traveled to the coastal city.
They discovered a prominent figure in contemporary Greek-Australian cuisine, David Tsirekas, who was previously the owner of Perama The restaurant in Petersham is run by Tsirekas, who has been advising Greek eateries in Chicago over the last several years. He is presently involved with launching a venture in the United States which he characterizes as "a blend of Fishbowl and traditional Greek cuisine."
Chicago may have looked to Sydney recently, but this hasn't always been the case. Tsirekas remembers a time when dolmades were crafted using cabbage instead of vine leaves, and European dishes like steak Diane occasionally appeared on menus.
When Conistis opened Cosmos, his restaurant in Darlinghurst, he made significant strides for Greek cuisine in Sydney as it was the city’s first chefs' hatted establishment dedicated to Hellenic fare.
Diners in Sydney were instrumental in the triumph of Greek cuisine. "Australians readily embrace novel tastes, allowing us to adapt dishes swiftly," according to Tsirekas. He also noted, "[As a nation], we're constantly searching for the latest culinary trends."
What's all the excitement about Greek cuisine? The increase in Australian travellers visiting Greece has certainly contributed to boosting interest in the nation's culinary delights.
Ioannis Mallikourtis, the Greek consul general based in Sydney, highlights that one of the main attractions of the Mediterranean diet lies in its balanced combination of vegetables with fish and meat, coupled with its renowned use of olive oil.
A passionate gastronome whose professional journey has taken them from New York to Nicosia, Mallikourtis is struck by the abundance of Greek cuisine choices in Sydney.
Nevertheless, Mallikourtis stays diplomatic about revealing his preferred spots for Sydney’s Greek cuisine: "It wouldn’t be fitting of me to mention particular places, but I can say that there is a wide range of Greek food catering to various preferences, mirroring some of the trends found in Greece."
In simpler terms, if you're working with limited funds and looking for a fast option, you can find souvlaki or gyro wraps easily. For those who prefer a more classic experience, there are long-standing Greek eateries in operation for many years. Additionally, you'll come across contemporary variations or ' fusion Greek' dining spots.
Tsirekas was struck by the variety among Sydney’s Greek eateries upon returning from his most recent time in Chicago. Eager to explore what was new, he made sure to visit several spots. At Olympic Meats in Marrickville, he noted that the authenticity rivalled anything one might encounter in a traditional Greek village. Similarly, he praised Kazzi for their locations in both Balmoral and Manly, noting approvingly how they did not skimp on bold flavours. "The dishes were full-flavoured," Tsirekas commented.
A restaurant absent from the Sydney Greek lineup is Ploos, located in The Rocks. Chef Peter Conistis of Ploos shared this information. The Herald He has left the waterfront restaurant and is no longer associated with it. "I requested that my name and menu be taken down," he stated. The establishment is presently listed online as being temporarily shut down.
Tsirekas didn’t have to search long to discover Conistis' cuisine. "I adored the setting at Ammos [in Brighton-le-Sands]; it reminds me of a Greek version of Icebergs. Plus, Ela Ela downtown offers an excellent overall experience. The food from Peter is top-notch, the pricing is just right, and the ambiance reflects modern Athens."
Fotinakis' two-week culinary event at Manta, beginning on March 21 (with set menus priced at $85 or $105 per person), forms part of an initiative to incorporate additional Greek cuisine into the Woolloomooloo seafood eatery’s offerings. The owner aims to expand their menu with these new additions. Bill Drakopoulos’ The Sydney Restaurant Group boasts an extensive portfolio, featuring establishments like Sails at Lavender Bay and Ormeggio at The Spit, yet has thus far refrained from venturing into the Greek market.
Drakopoulos mentioned that Fotinakis' brief stay would foster an exchange of modern culinary concepts between the nations. "Currently, there's a significant amount of fusion cuisine and raw fish dishes being utilized in Greece, along with pasta paired with seafood," he explained. He also noted that the warm climate in Greece mirrors that of this region.
Fotinakis, the chef at Bungalow 7 within the One&Only Aesthesis resort in Athens, will be bringing his renowned astakomakaronada (lobster pasta) and yuzu-infused taramasalata to Sydney.
Another notable Greek-Australian chef is Con Dedes, who owns an extensive portfolio of eateries including establishments like Flying Fish and Sala Dining —to explore the local dishes. Last year, Dedes snapped up Alpha , the contemporary Greek eatery located on Castlereagh Street within the Sydney CBD.
Dedes thinks that the market for Greek restaurants in Sydney had been under-served, with the demand exceeding the available options.
"It was inevitable," Dedes commented about the recent Greek upsurge. Get ready to loosen your belts; it seems that more establishments are coming soon.
Correction: A previous edition of this article mistakenly reported that David Tsirekas founded Perama restaurant in 1993. In fact, Perama was established by Harry Tamvakeras and Tsirekas' sister Ula George in 1993. David Tsirekas became involved subsequently and ultimately bought the business. Later on, he divested himself of Perama.
