Step Back in Time: Explore Italy’s 'Dying City' on a Journey Through the Middle Ages
If you've never heard of Civita di Bagnoregio, chances are you have still likely come across images of this remarkable location. You might even have questioned whether such a place truly exists because it seems almost surreal—a small, remote village built entirely out of rock, perched dramatically amidst an empty valley. Mediterranean Scrub, connected solely by a solitary footbridge to the contemporary world. It reads like a fairy tale, a ghost story, and a backdrop reminiscent of Game of Thrones .
Civita is referred to by Italians as la città che muore Often referred to as "The Dying City," this place earned its somber nickname due to its shrinking populace and precarious perch. For centuries, this village nestled within Italy’s Lazio region, roughly equidistant from Viterbe and Orvieto, has gradually crumbled away into the chasm beneath it. Constructed atop a plateau made of volcanic tuff in an inherently volatile geological setting, Civita confronts an unavoidable fate—sooner or later, natural elements will prevail, leading to the ultimate dissolution of The Dying City.
For the moment, however, Civita di Bagnoregio persists—and captivates. It stands out as one of the most enchanting and mysterious locations in Italy, accessible solely through a dramatic, winding pedestrian bridge linking Civita to the more extensive town of Bagnoregio. Inside the town’s boundaries, you can traverse its entire length within about ten minutes. Despite being a decaying hamlet smaller than a postage stamp with just a handful of permanent inhabitants, it attracts up to a million tourists annually, each paying €5 for entry over the bridge.
"Visitors are simply captivated by Civita," he said. Orvieto -based tour guide Lucianna Coppola For those residing in contemporary cities, this experience is entirely unparalleled to anything they have encountered before. Even for Italians accustomed to historic stone towns, very few locations evoke such a sense of traveling back in time.
Pause for a bit beneath the shadow of Porta Santa Maria, the principal entrance to this charming town. Just a brief stroll away lies Piazza San Donato, the heart and soul of Civita. This plaza stands out uniquely amongst Italian squares as it boasts an unpaved earth surface instead of being made of stone or marble, making it more reflective of its medieval past. Within the lovely Church of San Donato—initially constructed in the 400s and later renovated during the 1500s—you can find remnants of valuable frescoes, multiple intricately carved stone altar pieces, along with a 15th-century wooden crucifix believed to have been created by one of Donatello’s students.
Surrounding the edges of the piazza are cafes, eateries, and souvenir stores, along with Acqua di Civita A recently launched project by three youthful siblings involves developing a range of fragrances and beauty items inspired by the local area. These entrepreneurs also provide well-decorated rental spaces within the village, granting visitors entry to an expansive herbal garden where they gather components used in crafting their goods.
Additionally, located within the square, the Geological and Landslide Museum provides insights into the formation of Civita. It highlights the deterioration caused by earthquakes, landslides, and erosion throughout history, along with measures taken to mitigate this decay. The museum also houses an intriguing assortment of historical photographs that document changes in the cityscape over time.
Furthermore, Antica Civitas functions as an unconventional private museum located within a network of ancient subterranean caverns initially excavated by the Etruscans. During a brief, self-directed visit, vintage photographs, tools, and domestic utensils showcase how these caves served variously as refuges and larders throughout history.
Right at the very end of the road lies the meticulously maintained Giardino del Poeta, also known as the Garden of the Poet, which is privately owned. A modest contribution provides entry into this charming space filled with blooming flora and lush trees, offering expansive views just on the outskirts of the town.
My top choice for dining in Civita is Agnese's Osteria Al Forno Once home to the town's bakery and shared bread oven, this charming landmark has welcomed visitors since 1968. Co-owner Manuela Settini, whose spouse is the grandson of Agnese—the establishment's namesake—acts almost like a custodian of Civita’s shared history. Throughout coffee We sifted through her collection of family photographs, newspapers, and nostalgic pictures, which included scenes of donkeys transporting goods along a treacherous route—the sole means of entering and exiting the town following the World War II bombings that destroyed the causeway linking the ancient part of the city to the more recent section.
In 1965, a sturdy footbridge was built, reconnecting Civita to the outside after many years of isolation. This bridge facilitated an influx where affluent Italians purchased neglected properties within Civita at bargain prices and restored them into vacation retreats. Nowadays, much of the population consists of individuals with dual residences such as Alberto Salvatore, a Florentine attorney who has dedicated approximately two weeks each month to this place over the past three decades. "Choosing time," he described his connection to Civita’s unhurried lifestyle. "Arriving here allows me to shed the fast pace of my daily existence."
Nevertheless, residing in Civita entails venturing into Bagnoregio for all necessities since there are no stores here apart from souvenir shops. Even basic items like a loaf of bread or a packet of cigarettes necessitate a trip to the city center. Locals, entrepreneurs, and workers can use mopeds or scooters for commuting, while smaller four-wheeled vehicles ferry goods along with those who struggle with walking. All others make this trek on foot.
Living in Bagnoregio, Settini makes her daily commute to her restaurant on a lively red Vespa. She recalls the time before Civita experienced a significant surge in tourism starting around 2014, when the mayor at that time introduced an entry fee. Other parts of Italy like Venice and the Cinque Terre later adopted similar measures. During peak times, as many as 10,000 tourists might flood the small city. "This can be quite draining," she confessed, "but I must say this place has been very generous to me."
Getting there
ITA Airways The airline Alitalia operates flights between London Gatwick and Rome Fiumicino Airport starting at £169 for a round trip.
Acqua di Civita offers accommodations starting at €130 per night, which includes breakfast and is located on the main square in Civita di Bagnoregio.
A hired vehicle or personal transport is necessary to get to Civita di Bagnoregio. It takes roughly 20 minutes of walking from the nearest parking spot into the town, a duration that might seem much lengthier during a sweltering summer day.
Check out around 15 more delightful ones hilltop towns in Italy .
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